Tuesday, April 24, 2012

Hiking and Biking

While staying in Ubud, I took a couple day trips to the volcanoes in Bali’s interior – the first to climb Mt. Batur and the second to do a bicycling tour.

People climbing Mt. Batur typically do it as a sunrise hike.  So, after going to bed the previous night at about 9:00, I woke up at 1:30am to wait for a driver to pick me up at the hotel.  We picked up three guys (one Slovakian, two British but living in Australia) staying at other hotels in Ubud, and were on our way to the volcano by around 2:30.  We drove for about an hour through the countryside before stopping for a breakfast of coffee (which, fortunately, was very strong) and banana pancakes.  A few minutes’ drive from there and we reached the bottom of the trail, starting the hike around 4:00.  It was really amazing to be hiking in the dark under the moon and stars, though of course it’s somewhat difficult to hike when you can’t really see where you’re going.  We used flashlights, but they didn’t always provide enough light to really tell where the trail was – all part of the adventure!  The hike was a bit more difficult than I was expecting, mainly because our guide was going faster than I would have preferred, which I’ve heard a lot of people who’ve done the hike complain about.  With the rate we were going, it only took about two hours to reach the top, and we got there just before 6:00, at which point it was still dark.  The view from the top was beautiful, though unfortunately I don’t think my pictures really did it justice.  The viewpoint on the top looked out over a lake and across to another volcano, Mt. Agung – it was a great backdrop to watch the sunrise and the gradual transition from darkness to daylight.  Seeing the beginning of a new day from the top of a volcano was very invigorating, and the gorgeous scenery of Bali’s interior made it even better.  Some time after the sunrise, and a breakfast (lunch?) of banana sandwiches and hard-boiled eggs, we headed down the mountain and drove back to Ubud – in time to continue the day with everyone else.

A few days later, I had the opportunity to go back to the volcanoes for a bike tour, which offered a different perspective on the same beautiful area.  After driving out of Ubud, we started the day with a breakfast of fruit, tea, coffee, and banana and chocolate pancakes – and a great view overlooking the volcanoes and the lake.  Our group – made up of travelers from all over, including a British girl living in New Zealand, three Germans teaching English in Thailand, and a Chilean couple on their honeymoon – had a fantastic and hilarious guide who explained more about Bali and Balinese culture in that day that I had learned in the previous week here.  During the bike ride, we stopped at a coffee farm, a family compound, a village “square,” and a rice paddy.  For me, seeing the compound and learning more about Balinese family structures and daily life was the highlight of the trip.  The ride had a few challenging moments, but was mostly downhill and very easy, as we had driven up into the mountains and then biked back down towards town.  Biking on small backroads in the interior of the island offered a chance to see much more rural and less touristy parts of Bali than I would have been able to see otherwise.  It really enhanced my experience here and gave me much more perspective on local realities.  After ending the tour at an amazing buffet, which included delicious tempeh and chicken satay (skewers of chicken served with peanut sauce), we headed back into Ubud, slightly sore but with a much better understanding of Bali.

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