Tuesday, June 15, 2010

Things That Are Illegal Here

I've gradually discovered that a surprising number of things are illegal in Rwanda, so I'm keeping a running list. Here are the crimes I've discovered so far:

-Plastic bags (should be the case everywhere...)

-Talking about ethnicity (an attempt to reduce ethnic tension)

-Homosexuality (sad, but common in Africa)

-Mosquito nets that haven't been treated with insecticide

-Being barefoot outside (It seems this is not actually enforced...)

-A pregnant woman being tested for HIV w/o the father present

-Not having a kitchen garden (an effort to improve nutrition)

-Accusing someone of having been a member of the Interahamwe

-Prostitution (not the case in all African countries)

-Polygamy (ditto)

-Not participating in umuganda

Monday, June 14, 2010

Football Fever

As most of you likely know, the 2010 FIFA World Cup, held in South Africa, kicked off on Friday. If you’re familiar with Africa, you can probably imagine that this is an exciting time across the continent.

As it seems screenings of World Cup games are akin to cultural events, and thus a good opportunity to work on integration, I’ve watched the majority of the games that have been played thus far, mostly with students at the university in my town. Granted, I was watching a small TV from the back of a large room and could barely tell when goals were scored, but I still caught both the excitement about football and the pride for Africa.

While watching the games the past few days, a few things have stuck out to me.

First, people all over Rwanda, and throughout Africa, I believe, are phenomenally excited that the World Cup is being held in South Africa this year. Because of its history, level of development, substantial white population, and relative importance on the international stage, South Africa is sometimes considered separately from the rest of the continent. But, for Africans, this is the closest to home a major event has been, and it has put their continent in the global spotlight. I think it’s fair to say that Africans all over the world see South Africa’s hosting the World Cup as a rare moment of pride and recognition for the whole continent. Or, more optimistically, the first of many such moments.

On a similar note, Rwanda is not playing in the World Cup, six African teams are (South Africa, Nigeria, Cameroon, Ghana, Ivory Coast, and Algeria). Regardless of which of the six teams is playing or whom they’re playing against, every single person here roots with unbelievable excitement for the African team. Why? Because, “They’re African,” “They’re our brothers.” Africa’s not a country, and commentators shouldn’t generalize – yet, it’s clear that Africans themselves (there I go, generalizing) feel a tremendous unity that ties their whole continent together.

Finally, I was excited to see that, when the U.S. played against England on Saturday night, everyone was rooting for the U.S., exemplifying the fact that Rwandans (Africans in general, I think, to generalize again) like America. Is it because of the USAID stickers plastered all over everything? Or because we elected a black President? Or because the U.S. is more predominantly Christian than other Western countries? Or because of Jay Z and BeyoncĂ©? Based on my conversations with people, it’s probably some combination, but it’s hard to say. It makes me a little sad, though, that here Rwanda is a whole country full of people cheering on the U.S., when most Americans haven’t even heard of Rwanda and most of those who have only know about the genocide.

Anyway, I’m really happy to be in Africa during this World Cup, and I’m eager to see the excitement and pride continue to erupt in my little town throughout the next month.

Friday, June 4, 2010

Moving Day

A few days ago, I moved from the guesthouse I’d been staying at to my house – my very own house!

The actual moving process was quite an ordeal. My supervisor told me he hired some people to help transport my things. I envisioned a pick-up truck – after this long in Africa, I should have known better! Two guys showed up, and their only means of transportation was a small wooden cart that looked like it was about to fall apart. They tied my trunk, mattress, and a few other odds and ends to the cart, which one of the guys pushed, while the other wore my backpack, carried two buckets full of stuff, and put my suitcase on his head. Further, my supervisor and I had been busy at a co-op meeting during the day, so by the time we actually started moving my things, it was about 7:00pm, at which it’s completely dark here. Plus, on top of the two transport guys, my supervisor, and myself, a couple people who work at the guesthouse came along. In the end, we were a caravan of about six people, carrying everything I own through town in the pitch dark. It was quite a sight!

I’m still waiting on some of my furniture to finish being made so I can fully unpack, but I already have a bed, a dining table, a coffee table, 4 chairs, and a storage shelf. I’m also looking forward to getting a couple mats to put down. And, I still need to hang a clothesline and my mosquito net (though I haven’t gotten a single bite in four days of sleeping without one, which is shocking considering the number of bugs I’ve seen here – mosquitoes don’t like me) and buy a mattress that fits my bed and kerosene for my stove (since I moved in, I’ve eaten peanut butter with bananas, peanut butter with crackers, and peanut butter with bread). In the meantime, though, I’m just happy to have my own place and to be settling in and getting to know my umudugudu!

(Hopefully I’ll be able to post pictures of the house next time I’m in Kigali.)