Monday, June 18, 2012

On the Coast in Koh Kong

Our final stop in Cambodia was the small coastal town of Koh Kong, located on the edge of the Cardamom Mountains.  It was peaceful and quiet, felt pretty rural, and made a good last stop.

The Oasis Resort, run by a British guy who’s been in Cambodia for seven years, is probably my favorite hotel we’ve stayed at thus far.  It was $30/night for a triple room, which had really cool poster beds with curtains, air-conditioning, a patio, a TV that got BBC, a refrigerator, and a hot shower – and the shower was even in a sectioned-off area of the bathroom, meaning taking a shower didn’t inevitably soak everything in the entire bathroom, as is the norm in this part of the world, where shower curtains are pretty rare.  On top of that, the hotel had swings, hammocks, and a beautiful pool that looked out onto continuous fields and hills in the distance, with not another building in sight.

The food in Koh Kong, both at our hotel and in town, was wonderful, and included a lot of curry – chicken eggplant curry, vegetarian green curry, red chicken curry – and vegetable cashew stir-fry, as well as toast, yogurt, and chocolate mousse!

The hotel’s owner invites children from a nearby orphanage to use the pool, and there were about twenty kids swimming there the day we arrived.  We swam while the children were there, and, unbelievably (unlike Rwandan children), they didn’t stare at us, laugh at us, point at us, or poke us.  And, when we passed one of the hotel’s inner tubes to a kid when he got back in the pool after a snack break, he even said, “Thank you.”  Amazing.

One of the main attractions in that part of the country is Koh Kong Island, Cambodia’s largest, which is considered to have one of Southeast Asia’s most beautiful beaches.  But, as it’s about a two-hour boat ride from the coast, getting there is only possible when the weather is clear, and the water was unfortunately too rough to make the trip during the time we were there.

We had a successful outing to Tatai waterfall, though, about thirty minutes from town, which was lovely.  It was gorgeous, and the water was clear and great for swimming.  The waterfall was also surprising secluded, and we saw only one other small group of people the whole time we were there.  It was really wonderful to be out in the middle of nowhere and able to enjoy nature.

Throughout the entire trip, Anna and I had been planning what we dubbed “our scooter adventure,” and had been waiting to visit a place with little enough traffic that riding a scooter would actually be feasible for us.  Fortunately, since it was our last stop together, Koh Kong fit the bill – with little traffic in town and several empty country roads near our hotel, it was the best we could hope for.  I should preface this by saying that, with some regularity, Westerners who don’t have the first clue how to ride a motorcycle rent and try to drive them in southeast Asia, and end up in accidents, sometimes serious ones.  Since I have a lot of experience riding as a passenger on motorcycles and a tiny bit of experience learning to drive one, and since we rented a small scooter that was an automatic, I figured it would be pretty easy.  Well, it was definitely more difficult – and less like riding a bike – than I was expecting, and I did sort of crash once, but overall it was great.  It gave us a chance to get out in the countryside on our own, which was beautiful.  Plus, riding was just a lot of fun, and I’m really looking forward to the chance to do it again – maybe in Thailand next week!

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