Monday, May 7, 2012

Another Side of Indonesia: The Island of Java

After the overnight bus journey from Bali, we arrived in the town of Yogyakarta on the island of Java.  Our hotel in “Yogya,” Venezia Homestay, was about $17/night for a double including breakfast, making it our cheapest place yet.  It wasn’t as nice as our prior hotels, but was a really good value.  We used a shared bathroom with a cold-water shower, and the room, though it had a floor fan, was ungodly hot – especially on the top bunk, where I slept.  The family running the hotel, though, was very nice, and they even let us check in at 6:30am – and gave us a welcome drink!

To be honest, coming from Bali, Yogya itself was a bit underwhelming.  It was a pretty big town, seemed to be largely industrial, and lacked Bali’s interesting architecture and general beauty.  Like parts of Bali, it had Pizza Hut, KFC, McDonald’s, and Dunkin’ Donuts – I’m not sure when seeing places like that is going to stop being really strange to me.  As usual, we skipped the American chains, but we did indulge in frozen yogurt at J. CO, the Indonesian equivalent of Bourbon (though J CO. wins, hands down).  It was about $2.20 for a cup of yogurt with strawberries and chocolate chips, and was definitely as good as PinkBerry!  On our first night in Yogya, we had dinner at one of the cheapest restaurants I’ve ever eaten at – I paid about $1.10 for a dish of vegetables and rice with peanut sauce, and it was delicious!

Yogya’s main attractions are the temples of Borobudur and Prambanan, both UNESCO World Heritage sites, which we visited, along with the smaller temple of Mendut.  We left town at about 5:00am, to get to the temples before it got too hot (most days this time of year are in the high-90s) and crowded.  Borobudur, Indonesia’s single most-visited tourist attraction, dates from the ninth century.  The world’s largest Buddhist structure, it is huge – essentially a nine-story building – with the six square stories topped by three round ones.  Indonesian Buddhists still use Borobudur for pilgrimages and for celebrating the holiday of Vesak, which commemorates the Buddha’s birth, enlightenment, and death.  Prambanan, which also dates from the ninth century, is one of the largest Hindu temples in Southeast Asia.  It is actually a compound of numerous smaller temples, originally a total 240.  Today, the sixteen main structures have been reconstructed, but only two of the original 224 smaller temples are still standing.  Mendut is another Buddhist temple, also built around the ninth century.  It is known primarily for its three large stone statues of Buddha – one each to liberate devotees from bodily karma, from karma of speech, and from karma of thought.  Like Borobudur, Buddhists in Indonesia visit Mendut during celebrations of Vesak.

We also attended a dance performance in Yogya – a ballet, technically, though not a ballet in the Western sense.  Accompanied by traditional gamelan music, the Ramayana Ballet is a dance-drama based on the Sanskrit epic Ramayana, believed to have been written around the fourth century B.C.  The performance was similar to the one we saw in Bali, focusing on slow, deliberate movements and featuring incredibly elaborate costumes and make-up.

The following day, we boarded a second-class train to the Indonesian capital of Jakarta.  The train ride took about eight hours and cost $20.  Trains on Java have three classes, known as economy, business, and executive.  We ruled out economy class, having heard horror stories about the number of people that get crammed on each seat, and settled on business, since executive was nearly twice the price.  I guess most foreigners spring for executive, though, as everyone else on the train except one Dutch couple seemed to be Indonesian.  The ride was pretty enjoyable, and the train was much cleaner, less crowded (actually, probably about half the seats were empty), and more comfortable than expected.  Business class doesn’t have air-conditioning, but there was a fan and, with the windows open, it was very comfortable.  People came by every few minutes selling food, drinks, and other random goods including paper fans, flip-flops, and moist towelettes, and also renting pillows to passengers.  Vendors would flood into the aisles at certain stops, stay on the train selling things for a bit, then get off a few stops later.  Sometimes, they would set things down on the tray next to a passenger’s seat, leave it there while they continued to the next car – I guess hoping the passenger would eventually be tempted to buy it – and come back for it a few minutes later.

Unlike the seemingly never-ending sprawl of city we passed on the bus in East Java, the train took us through beautiful rural areas of Central Java.  We passed small towns and villages and rice fields, and saw banana and palm trees right by the tracks and mountains in the distance.  Perhaps another difference between business and executive, our train stopped a lot, often staying stopped for quite awhile.  At some stops, children stood on the platforms of the station begging, and I saw one Indonesian throw a coin through the window onto the ground as his train was pulling away.  The children noticed us, of course, but most of them left more or less immediately after I shook my head.

Late in the afternoon, we arrived in Jakarta, a mega-city of about ten million people.  The urban poverty was visible from our seat on the train, as we saw small shacks, with children playing and women cooking and doing laundry, mere feet from the tracks.  It was also fairly dirty, which I suppose it to be expected in a place housing that many people, with lots of trash on the ground and floating in the waterways.

Our hostel in Jakarta, Six Degrees, was the first place we stayed in a dorm.  As Jakarta is apparently relatively expensive, even compared to Bali, it was $13/night per bed.  Other than not having a hot water shower (which, again, was not needed), Six Degrees felt very much like a European hostel.  It was air-conditioned, immaculately clean, and included sheets, a blanket, and a towel; and, each bed had its own lamp and outlet.  We shared our room with two German guys, a Swiss guy, and an American girl – not only the first American we’d met, but also a Returned Peace Corps Volunteer from Paraguay!

The food in Jakarta was as excellent as it had been everywhere else.  For dinner, I had a particularly delicious gado-gado, a dish of raw vegetables covered in peanut sauce that had become my favorite Indonesian meal, for about $3.  The breakfast at our hostel was equally great, and not only included very legitimate toast, but also had peanut butter!

We only had a few hours in Jakarta before our flight to Bangkok, and we spent it wandering around, trying to see what there was to see.  The traffic was as crazy as any huge developing city, with lots and lots of motorcycles and tuk-tuks, and there were carts and stalls of street food everywhere we looked.  I also have to note that Jakarta has McDonald’s, KFC, Pizza Hut, Starbucks, and Domino’s, as well as, believe it or not, The Cheesecake Factory (five of them, actually).  After an hour-long bus ride from the city to Jakarta’s main airport, it was time to leave Indonesia for a brief stop in Thailand en-route to Cambodia!

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